Um von den Bay Islands / Honduras nach Nicaragua zu reisen, gab es für uns 2 Möglichkeiten. Die erste Möglichkeit war, morgens mit der Fähre von der Insel zum Festland zu fahren, dann mit dem Bus weiter nach San Pedro Sula und dort eine Nacht übernachten. Am nächsten Tag dann mit einem weiteren Bus über die Grenze nach Nicaragua. Dazu muss man sagen, dass San Pedro Sula als gefährlichste Stadt der Welt (Stadt mit der höchsten Mordrate der Welt → zur Statistik) gilt und als Tourist sollte man nach Einbruch der Dunkelheit die Straßen aufgrund von kriminellen Übergriffen meiden. Ganz nebenbei: Honduras ist auch Spitzenreiter in der Kategorie Morde pro 100000 Einwohner; und zwar mit weitem Vorsprung vor El Salvador und allen afrikanischen Schurkenstaaten → zu Statistik). Die zweite Möglichkeit ist auch mit der Fähre von der Insel aufs Festland und dann aber in einem Tag einem Minibus durch Honduras und über die Grenze nach Nicaragua. Dies bedeutet ca. 14 Stunden Fahrt in einem kleinen Bus (12-Sitzer). Ihr dürft nun raten, für welche Alternative wir uns entschieden haben:-) Wir haben uns für das kleinere Übel entschieden und sind in einem Tag nach Nicaragua gefahren. Tobi hat im Bus den schlechtesten Platz erwischt. Er war auf der Rückbank zwischen mir und dem zweiten Busfahrer eingeklemmt und konnte sich nicht wirklich viel bewegen.Wir sind dann nach einer anstrengenden Fahrt nachts um 23 Uhr im Hostel angekommen. Wir haben alle Knochen gespürt und uns hat alles weh getan, aber wir haben es immerhin geschafft in einem Tag nach Nicaragua zu gelangen:-)
Nicaragua ist inzwischen unser 4. Land auf unserer Reise. Ein neues Land bedeutet auch immer, man muss sich erstmal orientieren, z.B. wie ist der Wechselkurs, wie sind die Preise für Essen, Zimmer, etc. Nach unserer Ankunft in León und erster „Orientierung“ haben wir uns auf die Suche nach etwas Essbaren gemacht, denn es war ja schon spät. Wir trafen dann auf unsere zwei Busfahrer und sind dann mit ihnen noch an einem Grill – Straßenstand etwas Essen gegangen. Es gab zu meiner Überraschung sogar Grillkäse und gegrilltes Gemüse. Lustig war, dass genau zwei Straßen-Grillküchen nebeneinander waren. Die, bei der wir aßen, war auch nachts noch sehr gut besucht. Bei der anderen war kein Mensch. Wieso? Keine Ahnung. Wir aßen jedenfalls zwei weitere Male bei unserem Grillstand und der andere Grillstand war immer ohne Gäste. Auf der weiteren Reise durch Nicaragua stellte sich heraus, dass Straßegrills (sogenannte Comedores) der typische Ort ist, an dem man in Nicaragua isst. Im Vergleich zu den anderen Ländern ist das Essen hier auch wieder so billig, dass viele Einheimische nicht selber kochen, sondern vor allem mittags hier essen. Ein Grillteller mit dem Nationalgericht „Gallo Pinto“ (Reis mit Bohnen), Tortilla, Salat und Fleisch kostet etwa 2€.
Am nächsten Tag besichtigten wir dann die Stadt. León war nach der Unabhängigkeit Nicaraguas von Spanien im Wechsel mit Granada Hauptstadt des Landes, hat auch wie viele Städte in der Region kolonialen Charme, ist aber für den Tourismus hauptsächlich wegen des sogenannten „Vulcano-Boardings“ interessant. Mein erster Gedanke zur Stadt war „hier ist es heiß“. Wir hatten an diesem Tag fast 40° C und die Äquatorsonne brannte erbarmungslos auf uns nieder. Wie haben dann die wichtigsten Sehenswürdigkeiten besichtigt, waren im Revolutionsmuseum, haben noch in einem Comedor etwas gegessen und mussten dann leider aufgeben. Es war einfach zu heiß. Wir haben uns dann am Abend noch mit Dexter getroffen, den wir auf den Bay Islands kennengelernt haben (er musste zwecks Platzmangel im Minibus von den Bay Islands die Route mit Stop-Over in San Pedro Sula nehmen) und den Tag mit einem kühlen Bier im Hostel ausklingen lassen.
Grundsätzlich ist zu Nicaragua zu sagen, dass es hier gefühlt viel weniger Menschen gibt als in der Ländern zuvor. Alles geht etwas weniger hektisch zu, man sieht weniger Wachleute und Militärs, die Busse sind nicht ganz so voll und es ist vermutlich das sicherste mittelamerikanische Land. Auf den Märkten kann man laufen und wird nicht zerdrückt und die Menschenfänger für die Busse brüllen dir nicht ihre Fahrtstrecken ins Ohr, wenn du direkt neben ihnen stehst. Kurze Erklärung zum Busfahren: Ein Team in einem Bus besteht hier in allen Ländern aus 2 oder auch 3 Personen. 1. Der Fahrer: Funktion ist klar. Er macht aber auch nichts anderes als fahren. Reden tut er nicht. 2. Der Einschreier / Kassierer: Erster Teil der Aufgabe: Er rennt wie ein Verrückter über den Busbahnhof, brüllt wie verrückt seine Fahrstrecke heraus und versucht möglichst viele Leute in seinen Bus zu bekommen. Zweiter Teil der Aufgabe: Im Bus die Fahrgäste abkassieren. 3. Der Gepäck-Verlader: Er lädt alles was die Leute im Bus transportieren wollen aufs Dach und wieder herunter sobald das Ziel des Fahrgastes erreicht ist. Dabei kann wirklich alles im Bus transportiert werden, Hühner, Tische, Stühle, Fernseher, etc. Jedenfalls sind hier die Einschreier weniger penetrant. Allerdings haben wir hier die Leute im Vergleich z.B. zu Guatemala weniger freundlich wahrgenommen. Aber wer kann es ihnen bei einem durchschnittlichen Monatslohn von weniger als 200€ auch verdenken. Nicaragua ist das ärmste Land in der Region.
Am nächsten Morgen dann stand unser Highlight für León an und zwar das „Vulcano-Boarding“ auf dem Vulkan „Cerro Negro“. Dabei fährt man dann mit einer Art Schlitten, in unserem Fall ein schmales Holzbrett, den Vulkan hinunter. Aber natürlich muss man erstmal zum Gipfel des Vulkans kommen. Und da es hier keinen Lift gibt wie beim Skifahren in den Bergen, muss man den ganzen Weg mit seinem Schlitten hochgehen. Und das wieder bei ca. 40° C. und schwarzem Vulkanstein. Das war schon die erste Herausforderung. Der Aufstieg dauerte so ca. eine Stunde. Oben angekommen, konnten wir erstmal den Ausblick genießen und wurden dann mit Anzug, Handschuhe, etc. ausgestattet. Und dann ging die wilde Fahrt los. Ich, Steffi, war am Anfang ganz gut auf dem Schlitten und ab der Hälfte habe ich dann etwas Schiss vor meiner Geschwindigkeit bekommen und etwas abgebremst. Weil mein Schlitten dann keine Fahrt mehr aufnehmen wollte, war ich dann wie eine Schnecke unterwegs, was mir letztendlich den Geschwindigkeitsrekord gekostet hat:-) Tobi hat bei seiner Fahrt nicht gebremst und im zweiten Drittel dafür einen spektakulären Stunt hingelegt. Er hat sich zweimal überschlagen und musste dann seinem Schlitten hinterherrennen, weil der natürlich nicht auf seinen Fahrer gewartet hatte. Kurz vor dem Ziel hat er ihn dann wieder eingeholt und das letzte Stück dann gemütlich zurückgelegt. Es war eine spaßige Aktion. Doch der „Spaß“ ging noch weiter. Auf dem Rückweg ist unser Bus im Sand stecken geblieben. Nach mehrmaligen Versuchen aus dem Sand wieder herauszukommen, musste unsere Gruppe (7 Personen) aus dem Bus aussteigen und ihn anschieben. Unsere Kräfte haben leider nicht ausgereicht, um ihn wieder aus dem Sand herauszubekommen. Als es dem Busfahrer dann zu blöd wurde, ist er ein ganzes Stück den Weg rückwärts zurückgefahren und hat dann einen anderen Weg genommen. Und zum krönenden Abschluss hatte der Bus dann kurz vor León noch einen Platten. Wir mussten dann alle wieder aussteigen und warten, bis der Reifen in der Werkstatt gewechselt wurde. Sind dann aber letztendlich mit 2 Stunden Verspätung verschwitzt und verstaubt wieder in León angekommen.
An unserem letzten Tag in Leon haben wir den Pazifikstrand „Las Penitas“ besucht, der ca. eine Stunde Busfahrt von León entfernt ist. Tobi hat sich schon total auf den Pazifik gefreut, da wir auf unserer Reise bis jetzt nur an den Karibikstränden waren. Wir hatten dann fast einen menschenleeren Strand vor uns. Wir haben das ausgenutzt und sind dann gefühlt eine Ewigkeit den schwarzen Strand entlang gelaufen. Es war heiß und die Sonne hat mal wieder erbarmungslos auf uns herabgebrutzelt. Tobi weigerte sich dann irgendwann, bei der Hitze weiterzugehen. Ich habe ihn dann versucht zum Weitergehen zu motivieren, dass wir bald eine Strandbar finden werden, die ein kühles Bier für uns hat. Und zum Glück haben wir dann am Ende des Strandabschnitts ein Restaurant gefunden. Hier haben wir dann ein paar Spiele gezockt, waren im Pazifik baden und Tobi hat natürlich sein „Belohnungsbier“ getrunken.
Wir grüßen aus dem heißen Nicaragua
Steffi & Tobi
Cooool!!!!
Es macht so Spaß eure Berichte zu lesen und eure Fotos werden immer toller. Immer wenn Malin Schläfle macht nutze ich es aus und verfolge eure Abenteuer.
LG
Kerstin
Hi ihr 2
na Steffi du machst deiner Mutter ja Mut mit der Mordrate etc. Habt weiterhin so viel Spass wie bisher und wir werden uns schon noch sehen warts ab.
Grüssle von einem fast 16 Jährigen Jake und ner etwas fast mal wieder älteren Tante.
Bussi Bee
Hallo Birgit,
hoffe ihr hattet eine tolle Geburtstagsparty. Würden uns freuen, wenn wir uns irgendwo sehen. Sind ja noch eine Weile unterwegs:-)
Liebe Grüße
huhu ihr zwei,
musste bischen lachen über eure Bilder vom VulkanBoarden… *Hot Hot*
Freu mich schon über euren nächsten Bericht und natürlich Bilder
Bussi und drückerchen
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